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Does anyone know if the 2024.5 Companion App update for iOS removed the ability to control entities from the widget? I've read the release notes but there's no mention of any features being removed.

I could absolutely swear that I had a working widget with most of my lights on it, a solitary button for each light, that I could single tap to toggle said light.

Then, a few months or so back, I noticed the widget didn't seem to be working. The entity icons had change to black, round shadows, and tapping them did nothing.

I deleted the widget, thinking it got corrupted somehow and have never been able to get it back exactly as described above.

Now, it seems that only thing I can do with widgets is use Actions. Some Actions have been auto-created by the Companion App for each scene on my server, and I can obviously create my own Actions, to trigger automations.

But, I don't want to have to frig around with Actions (using input_booleans and automations) to do something as simple as turning a light on or off.

Am I dreaming? Did the iOS widgets never have this ability? Or am I missing something really obvious to configure entities onto a widget?

Thanks in advance for any useful advice.

cross-posted from: https://mander.xyz/post/16531247

> I have tried to follow several tutorial to setup using either ip or nmtui: > - https://linuxconfig.org/how-to-use-bridged-networking-with-libvirt-and-kvm > - https://www.redhat.com/sysadmin/setup-network-bridge-VM > > However, the bridge inherits the MAC address of host after enslaving the host hardware enp1s0.... This causes my router to give both the host and the bridge the same ip address, making the ha instance inaccessible. > > The red hat tutorial clearly show that the bridge and the host have different IP, so I was wondering if I am doing something wrong. > > --- > > alternatively, I can set the home assistant vm to run in NAT and port forward from host, but I have several device that communicate over different ports. So it would be annoying to forward all these ports. Not to mention, many appliances don't have documentation about the ports they use. > > I can also potentially use virtualbox, but it is not well supported on silverblue, especially with secureboot enabled.

Windows and macOS have similar clients (Hass.Agent for Windows and Home Assistant for macOS).

I've found these kinds of clients useful because I can remotely wake-up or sleep computers, track how long they are turned on for, and automatically pause my lights and music when my webcam turns on.

Hey guys,

I made an automation that powers off my bluetooth speaker (using IR blaster) when ChromeCast is powered off for more than 10 s. Automation is working fine, but sometimes ChromeCast changes state from OFF to Unavailable and back to OFF in just a few seconds. I have no idea why is that happening, but it triggers automation and turns ON the speaker (it is the same IR button for ON and OFF) and gets it out of sync.

What condition or trigger should I use to make it work only when ChromeCast state changes from ON to OFF and ignores Unavailable to OFF?

There is my automation:

```

alias: Turn off JBL description: if CC is off for 10 sec trigger:

• platform: device type: turned_off device_id: bc1049ea43a53092952d364749c3fb4c entity_id: ae0ea35649746ed5cea16f8d6ca54dd3 domain: remote for: hours: 0 minutes: 0 seconds: 10 condition: [] action:
• service: remote.send_command metadata: {} data: num_repeats: 1 delay_secs: 0.4 hold_secs: 0 device: jbl command: "off" target: device_id: 4f1f3a13324e03646ff6b03aed27f2fe mode: single

```

thanks in advance

Thanks to Smart Home Junkie's video (invidious link), I had my Atom Echos as voice recognition boxes with all audio output redirected to a media player of my choice (because the audio on the Echo is super quiet).

Whenever ESPHome updated, I updated my Echos to get the recent ESPHome updates, and then reinstalled the custom yaml for audio redirection.

However, with ESPHome's recent 2024.6.4 update, trying to install the yaml triggers errors that don't seem to make sense. For example, here's a section of the yaml: ``` microphone:

• platform: i2s_audio id: echo_microphone_kitchen i2s_din_pin: GPIO23 adc_type: external pdm: true

speaker:

• platform: i2s_audio id: echo_speaker_kitchen i2s_dout_pin: GPIO21 dac_type: external mode: mono

voice_assistant: id: va microphone: echo_microphone_kitchen speaker: echo_speaker_kitchen noise_suppression_level: 2 auto_gain: 31dBFS volume_multiplier: 2.0 vad_threshold: 3 on_listening: - light.turn_on: id: led blue: 100% red: 0% green: 0% effect: "Slow Pulse" on_stt_vad_end: - light.turn_on: id: led blue: 100% red: 0% green: 0% effect: "Fast Pulse" on_tts_start: - light.turn_on: id: led blue: 100% red: 0% green: 0% brightness: 100% effect: none on_tts_end: - homeassistant.service: service: media_player.play_media data: entity_id: media_player.${media_player} media_content_id: !lambda 'return x;' media_content_type: music announce: "false" on_end: - delay: 100ms - wait_until: not: speaker.is_playing: - script.execute: reset_led on_error: - light.turn_on: id: led red: 100% green: 0% blue: 0% brightness: 100% effect: none - delay: 1s - script.execute: reset_led on_client_connected: - if: condition: switch.is_on: use_wake_word then: - voice_assistant.start_continuous: - script.execute: reset_led on_client_disconnected: - if: condition: switch.is_on: use_wake_word then: - voice_assistant.stop: - light.turn_off: led

external_components:

• source: github://pr#5230 components:
  • esp_adf refresh: 0s

esp_adf: ```

On lines 3 and 10 I define unique IDs for the device's microphone and speaker.

But ESPHome won't compile, telling me:

• on line 46: Too many candidates found for 'id' type 'speaker::Speaker' Some are 'echo_speaker', 'echo_speaker_kitchen'.
• on line 57: Too many candidates found for 'id' type 'speaker::Speaker' Some are 'echo_speaker', 'echo_speaker_kitchen'.
• on line 77: Too many candidates found for 'id' type 'microphone::Microphone' Some are 'echo_microphone', 'echo_microphone_kitchen'.
• on line 90: Too many candidates found for 'id' type 'speaker::Speaker' Some are 'echo_speaker', 'echo_speaker_kitchen'.

There are no other occurrences of the word "speaker" or "microphone" in the conf yaml (and I'm not including other yaml files).

I'm assuming most of this config is default, and the only things I care about are forcing pin 21 for the speaker (line 11) and redirecting audio to my media player (lines 45-52).

I am talking about this kind of livestream.

It looks nice, with all the different layouts and so on.

Hi,

Is there anyone using Amcrest IP4M-1041B with Home Assistant? I've a few questions about software and integration.

1. From what I hear, this camera can be setup 100% offline, connected via cable to any computer and by using a built in WebUI the camera has, is this true?

2. It offers pan, tilt or zoom. Does it work really good with HA? Can it be operated without any Amcrest software / internet connection?

3. The features above allow you to set preset locations, can that be done on HA / WebUI / without the Amcrest app as well?

4. Does it really operate all features offline and is it reliable? Eg. motion detection works as expected / doesn't miss events?

5. What's your overall experience with the camera? Does it compare to let's say a TP-Link tapo?

Thank you.

Working on the @homeassistant setup this weekend now that the pantry is getting closer to being finished.

Trying to setup an automation to run the robot vacuum in the utility room every third time the litter box goes off. Cannot seem to get the zones working though.

Any thoughts? \#homeassistant #smarthome #homeautomation

It was a long running project, but I finally did it. I built what I'm calling a smart mailbox that communicates the presence of mail locally with Home Assistant via ESPHome.

Parts:

• Pine plank roughly the width of my mailbox
• Treated pine plank for mounting
• Thin sheet of perspex or similar transparent plastic
• 2x VCNL4010 proximity sensor
• ESP32 dev board with antenna
• Bigger antenna
• Prototype board
• 2.54mm pitch JST connectors
• 2.54mm pitch pin header sockets
• 18650 battery
• 18650 Type-C charging module
• Battery holder
• 2x 5V 1.5W solar panels
• MCP1700-3302E LDO regulator
• 100uF electrolytic capacitor
• 100nF ceramic capacitor
• Resistors... I think I ended up using a 1 MOhm and a 330 kOhm
• Weatherproof junction box
• Nylon screw spacers
• Cable glands
• 12mm waterproof button
• Various cables and wires
• Paint and polyurethane spray to weatherproof the wood

Tools:

• Soldering iron
• Router for cutting grooves in wood
• Drill and hole saw bits
• Various files and sandpaper

For a start, I followed this guide to get me started on the power delivery portion, but I ended up using much higher valued resistors since I found that I was losing more battery charge through the voltage divider than I was from the ESP32 or proximity sensors.

Once I'd tested the concept with the parts just laying in a jumble on the table, it was time to get to work.

I started by cutting a plank of pine to fit my mailbox, chamfering the ends to make space for the metal joins. I routed out some spaces for the tops of the bolts that hold the mailbox down.

!

Measured out where the sensors should go, along with a surrounding space to screw down some little perspex windows to cover them. The idea I wanted was for the mail to be able to slide over the sensors without getting caught on them, as well as to protect them from dust.

!

Routed out the dents and cleaned them up with a chisel and sandpaper. Cut the perspex to shape for a test fit.

!

On the other side, I routed out a notch for the cable to access the sensors.

!

I had originally planned to just solder wires into the sensors, but then I realised JST connectors would fit perfectly into the sensors. This meant I had to widen the holes somewhat, which I did with a small chisel and file.

!

I got a bit lazy with making screw holes to hold down the perspex, so they're not in as neat a place as I'd like. If I did this again I'd measure properly for their placement. Still, with countersinking they hold down the perspex well and nothing sticks up for mail to get caught on.

!

I also got started on making a housing for the solar panels. I used the router to carve out a 1-2mm area for them to sit in, and a much deeper ditch linking the two terminals, which you'll see in a later picture. For now, here's how they look sitting in it.

! !

Wiring up the prototype board was next. Again, see the article I linked above for how this works. I used pin headers to allow the ESP32 dev board to be slotted in and out, just in case I ever needed to take it out for replacement or reprogramming. Also the JSTs on the prototype board are for connecting the battery (top left), connecting the solar panels (bottom left), providing power to the sensors (bottom right) and clock and data lines for the sensors (top right). Since the sensors are both using the same I2C bus address and cannot be configured otherwise, I had to run two clock and data lines, but if I'd found sensors that could have different addresses I could have just used one of each. I didn't take a photo of the board at this stage, but I later added another header to connect a button to reset the ESP32 from the outside.

!

I also made the data and power cable for the sensor board.

!

The solar panel housing and 'sensor plate' were both painted and treated with polyurethane spray to protect them from rain and humidity.

! !

And the panels themselves were sealed in with a tonne of silicone. It made a real mess, but I'm confident no water is going to get in there.

! !

I drilled holes in the weatherproof box to fix the cable glands and the weatherproof button. In the case of the solar panel wire, I had opted to buy speaker wire since I figured it would be easier to run in the channel between the two solar panels, being flat. But that also made it not really fit the cable glands that great. I ended up stripping some of the outer sheath off some 2 wire power cable I had, and wrapping that around the part of the speaker wire that gets clamped in the glands, just to make a reasonable seal. These all were on the side I decided I would mount at the bottom, so water wouldn't be able to easily fall into the box.

!

Final test fit. I later used epoxy glue to glue down the nylon headers and the battery holder inside the box. This means the prototype board can also be easily removed, as can the ESP32 dev board and the battery, but the battery holder cannot. Let's hope I never have to get that thing out.

!

The mailbox itself also needed a hole in the bottom for the sensor cable to come out. After drilling a hole and filing it into a square shape, I cut some rubber grommet strip to size and fitted it around the hole, with some marine silicone adhesive to protect the sharp metal edges from water and to hold the grommet strip in place.

!

I'd drilled some holes in the brick wall my mailbox sits upon for masonry anchors, and this piece of treated pine got the last of my polyurethane spray, just in case.

!

Using a two pieces of the leftover perspex glued together, I made an internal mount for the antenna, figuring it would be best to not have the thing either floating around freely inside the box or sticking out the side where people could potentially break it off.

! !

Finally, after weeks of off and on work, it was ready to install.

! !

The ESPHome coding used my VCNL4010 component, and if anyone is interested I can share it but it's kinda a large file. I had originally planned to just use Arduino IDE and talk directly to MQTT, in order to keep things simple and just use the Adafruit VCNL4010 library, but in the end elected to use ESPHome. For, among other things, its support for over the air updates.

cross-posted from: https://lemmy.world/post/15144957

> Can anyone help me figure out Frigate/go2rtc > > I have two cameras in Frigate. > > One is a Raspberry Pi 3 running Monocle server, and this stopped working in Frigate some time back (driveway). > The second is a Galayou G7 (nursery). > The nursery camera is the one I am concerned about with this post. > > Problem: > Up until a month or two ago (I must have ran an update but I don't know) the audio from the Galayou camera worked in Home Assistant. I'd like to get that working again. > Some searching led me to try setting up go2rtc in my config. > > Here is my config before making any changes: > > mqtt: > host: 192.168.1.10 > cameras: > nursery: > ffmpeg: > inputs: > - path: rtsp://redacted:[email protected]:554/live/ch1 > roles: > - detect > detect: > width: 1280 > height: 720 > driveway: > ffmpeg: > inputs: > - path: rtsp://192.168.1.240:554/recording/7824851880350319106/replay?trackid=8836591 > roles: > - detect > detect: > width: 1920 > height: 1080 > > > This currently provides only jsmpeg video in Frigate. > If I add something like this to the end: > > go2rtc: > streams: > nursery: > - rtsp://redacted:[email protected]:554/live/ch1 > > this adds mse and webrtc as options in Frigate. But, mse plays only video, no audio. And webrtc loads neither audio nor video. > I have tried adding lines like - "ffmpeg:nursery#video=h264#audio=aac" and also with opus but to no avail. > > > Finally, if I ffplay rtsp://redacted:[email protected]:554/live/ch1 it loads audio/video without a problem. > I'm also able to connect via ONVIF at onvif://192.168.1.241:8899 from onvif-gui. > > So, something is wrong in my Frigate config, and I don't know what. I'm hoping someone here is a little more familiar and can give me a pointer or two here?

Update: Here is the fix, in case anyone comes across this later: go2rtc: streams: nursery: - "ffmpeg:rtsp://[email protected]:554/live/ch1#video=copy#audio=copy#audio=opus" webrtc: candidates: - <server-ip>:8555 The webrtc section got webrtc to work in the Frigate and video back in HASS. The #audio=copy#audio=opus got audio working in webrtc.

Next school year, my son will be left home after school for a few hours while my wife and I are at work. I'm looking for a way to detect when he's home and have the front door unlock (among other automation scripts that are in place).

I came across this post and was going to get the Tile Pro as it seemed to check off all my requirements:

• I could put it in his backpack where it can be forgotten.
• long battery life.
• Through the Home Assistant integration, it can trigger when it gets in range.
• It also has a few other beneficial things, so I was thinking of putting one on each of our bicycles in case they're ever stolen. Hell, I could look into putting one on my cat's collar in case she ever gets out.

Then I came across some concerning articles regarding data harvesting. The whole reason I started self-hosting was to prevent data harvesting, so it seems like the Tile is a non-starter for me.

Has anyone been in this (or a similar) situation? Mainly, I'm looking for a device I can put in my son's backpack that can trigger when he's within range, so the house will open for him. BLE seems like it might be a solution, though I run my server on an old Dell r720 enterprise server in my basement, so I don't currently have Bluetooth functionality (and it's pretty far away from the front door, 20+ feet), though getting that is not a dealbreaker for me.

• Addendum: To people saying just get a key: we have a key for him. I have a monolith sized server in my basement that automates most everything in my house these days, and was curious if anyone had set up something similar to what I was thinking. Home automation is very much a hobby, and I'm using it to learn new things.

I posted this issue to HA's forums and received no response, hoping someone here has some idea to help.

I have a lot of TP-Link Kasa devices in my home. When I first installed HA, it automatically discovered all of them. I was using a 4-year-old TP-Link Deco mesh system at the time.

For reasons unrelated to HA, I had to replace that system. I replaced it with a newer TP-Link Deco system, X55. Once that was installed, HA could no longer access the Kasa devices. It still sees all my other IoT devices.

First, I removed all the Kasa devices from HA and tried to rediscover them; no luck. I tried using each device’s IP address for the host to discover them. When I used 192.168.68.67, e.g., I got this error message:

Connection error: Unable to connect to the device: 192.168.68.67:9999: [Erno 113] Connect call failed (‘192.168.68.67’, 9999)

I rebooted at all places, including resetting a couple of the Kasa devices to see if that worked. My sneaking suspicion was that this new Deco system has a Smart Devices Manager in the app, which only recognizes my Kasa devices on my network (none of the other IoT devices), and somehow that’s interfering with HA’s access to these devices.

Since then, I managed to make some progress, but not much. I managed to remove my Kasa devices from the Deco app management by “removing” each one. This deleted the custom name for each so that now each shows as its generic model type on my network (e.g., KL110).

After I did that, HA found nine of the 14 devices automatically. It still won’t find the other five. Every week or so, it discovers a new one on its own, so maybe someday it’ll find all of them.

However, I still get the error “Failed setup, will retry” for all of the ones it has found. When I reload, it goes through the initializing stage, then right back to “Failed setup, will retry.” I have debug logging on, but I don’t see any logs for these devices in my logs. When I go to a specific device, it indicates “No logbook events found.”

I’m still able to control these devices via the Kasa app, but I can’t incorporate them into any HA automations.

Any help or suggestions is much appreciated. Thanks!

I'm following the settings on WLED's wiki for the WS2814 strip:

>6-LED groups (24V) as one logical LED. Must be controlled as SK6812 type, color order: BRG, swap W and G (this option is available since WLED 0.14.0-b1)

But the lights just flicker like crazy. Switching WLED settings definitely does something, but not the intended effect.

Using the domestic automations controller. On the latest WLED firmware. LEDs are powered directly by a 24V 10A PSU. Originally I thought my data cable was too long but it still has all the issues plugged directly into the controller.

Has anybody got these strips working? Is the WLED wiki wrong?

> > > We recently held our State of the Open Home 2024 live stream, where we revealed how we are thinking even bigger about securing the future of the smart home. During this stream we launched the Open Home Foundation, a new non-profit organization created to fight for the fundamental principles of the smart home — privacy, choice, and sustainability — focused on serving everyone that lives in one. To learn more about the Open Home Foundation read the full announcement. > >

> > > The stream includes a deep dive into the evolution of Home Assistant and how it has now reached an estimated 1 million installations. There were other substantial updates on voice and hardware, including teasing our upcoming Z-Wave and voice assistant hardware. The first panel discussion featured the founders of Open Home Foundation collaborating projects WLED, Zigbee2MQTT, Rhasspy, and Z-Wave JS. A second panel gave a comprehensive overview of the state of open standards, featuring key open-source developers working on Zigbee, Z-Wave, Matter, and Bluetooth. The stream caps off with a look into the future of the open home, including the announcement of a roadmap full of exciting new features. > >

> > > https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oa\_\_fLArsFk > >

> > > Full list of chapters: > > > > Introduction (0:00:11) > Announcing the Open Home Foundation - Paulus Schoutsen (0:02:36) > Panel with Open Home Foundation collaborators - WLED, Zigbee2MQTT, Rhasspy, Z-Wave JS (0:18:31) > Voice - Michael Hansen (0:36:31) > Home Assistant - Franck Nijhof (0:53:08) > Hardware - Uwe Bernitt (1:21:37) > Panel on Open Standards - Zigbee, Z-Wave, Matter, Bluetooth (1:40:21) > Future - Madelena Mak (2:07:29) > Closing (2:37:33) > >

> > > The Open Home Foundation now owns and governs over 240 open-source projects, standards, drivers, and libraries, including Home Assistant - protecting these projects from buy-out or becoming abandoned. To learn more about the Open Home Foundation, visit: www.openhomefoundation.org > >

Btw you can follow the Open Home Foundation on Mastodon: @openhomefoundation

But I’ve been getting this error:

[supervisor.docker.interface] Can't install ghcr.io/home-assistant/generic-x86-64-homeassistant:2024.4.4: 500 Server Error for http+docker://localhost/v1.44/images/create?tag=2024.4.4&fromImage=ghcr.io%2Fhome-assistant%2Fgeneric-x86-64-homeassistant&platform=linux%2Famd64: Internal Server Error ("Get "https://ghcr.io/v2/": net/http: request canceled while waiting for connection (Client.Timeout exceeded while awaiting headers)") [supervisor.homeassistant.core] Error on Home Assistant installation. Retrying in 30sec

I’ve tried changing DNS, but it didn’t help and I seem to get no other helpful results from searching. If anyone has any suggestions I’d appreciate it as this seems to be something my home could benefit from but it’s just not loading beyond the CLI

Hello all,

What do I actually do when I finally have a running instance (of containerised HA on a Raspberry Pi)? Delete all the toys from Alexa and Smart Life and start again in Home Assistant?

Is deleting everything the intelligent way to go rather than trying to transition?

My Google-foo is failing I did try to find an answer in Lemmy/Reddit/HA. Apologies if I miss an obvious place.

Thank-you in advance.

Anyone have any current recommendations for an open source (or one that works without internet) robot lawnmower?

I've got 1,300m3 of grass around my house and it's been a pain to cut with a push mower.

So far I've only seen:

• OpenMower
• RepalMaker

My issue with the openmower one is that I don't know how to solder and I'm too afraid I'll break some very expensive components, so it would be nice if I could buy something mostly pre-built.

As for repalmaker, I worry not having GPS won't work since my garden is quite large and a robot bouncing around randomly would probably never finish, I also have a separate front and back (there's a path between them) and I'd like the robot to finish one area then, go to the other area by itself.

Anyone seen any other options available?

Hi, I recently had some issue regarding some custom integration: The resource (sensor) names were localised / translated.

This created first some confusion, later some effort to get some other custom-card working.

Example: sensor.CHARGERNAME\_dynamic\_circuit\_limit --\> sensor.CHARGERNAME\_dynamisches\_stromkreislimit

Is there a general rule for (integration-) developers to localise resource/sensor names?

What is yr idea?

\#HomeAssistant @[email protected] @[email protected] @[email protected] @[email protected]

I've got a weather station outside and I use this add on to bring it into HA. We only had 79.8% coverage during the eclipse, but there was a noticeable drop in temperature!

I am having issues flashing ESPhome on these ESP32 s2 minis. I have tons of esphome devices. This isnt nearly my first. However it feels like it today..

These are the units I purchased. https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805791099168.html

The purple board. S2 Mini 2MB PSRAM.

Anyone have experience with these boards? Thanks.