I have never used a 3d printer. But have done a little research.

Be great if someone could confirm my intention is sane.

I have loads of Linux experience so my plans relate to open source all the way.

First off I am brassic(poor). So looking cheap all the way. My brother and I have a tiny narrowboat we are refitting. And plan to use the printer for stuff within the boat.

Due to this printing PA6 to go in the bilge is important. (Diesel and water bad for most other plastics)

As we are both vision impaired and old. The idea is most of the electrical mountings etc will be self designed and painted to make future access quick and easy with our rapidly worsening vision.

So my plan. I am looking at a elegoo Neptune 4 pro.

Because it is cheap but great value. Uses kipper. And seems easy to modify as I grow in use. Also supports temps needed for PA6 etc.

But I will need an enclosure to work with PA 6 and a dryer.

Dryer is cheap not an issue.

But I'm thinking of a tent enclosure. Some good well insulated ones on amazon for £50 with hose to vent out smells.

Will one of these tents be suitable for keeping temperature stable while printing PA6. And can anyone offer other advice for cheap solutions to make this easy.

On a related novice front.

Gue to the vision. One of the projects is to print mounting boards for din rail fuses etc. The idea being to mix colours.

Ie flat surface faces from and back in white. The the inner support fram in a bright colour. This will mean holes to support thumb screws etc for easy low vision future maintainance. IE easy to find the pre set screw holes.

This plan means I can swap colours when printing layers so should be easy without over (for me) briced multi head printer.

But can anyone share experience with doing this with nylon. IE how dose delays in printing the layers while swapping filament t effect the linking of those layers.

As I say complete novice o the actual doing this so any advice will be helpful.

I’m looking for some advice on how to bond a post-processed resin printed piece to a large PLA print. I assume my options are either superglue or maybe brushing resin onto the PLA, attaching the resin print, and hitting it with a UV light?

Is there a better way? Thanks!

Very nice practical example of printed test jigs for PCB assembly testing. Newpipe is down ATM, so if you're looking for something to watch, this might burn 32 minutes. I found it mildly inspirational to get making/designing some stuff again.

Openscad wanted about 25 gig of RAM to crunch this.

Hi everyone,

I'm having a weird issue with text such as the one in this image. Big or small, fancy or regular, all text comes out looking like it does in the image - cracked and hollow. I've spent the last few days trying to figure out why, and I'm stumped.

I've tried printing slower and slower and adding more and more top layers (the bottom 2 bottle caps are completely solid with 100% infil), but it doesn't seem to fix the issue.

Here's what I'm working with:

• Ender 3
  • Software 2.0.8.27
  • Hardware 4.2.2
• CR Touch
• PrusaSlicer 2.8.0
• MakerBot PLA Filament
• I've used various temperatures and speeds. All of them have generated the terrible text you see here

Thanks in advanced for the help!

Update: We seem to be getting somewhere!

!

The top 2 are the same ones featured in the post above. The bottom left was printed at 110% extrusion and normal speed. The bottom right was printed at 110% extrusion and a much slower speed for the text, and it looks much better! I'm printing another now with higher bridge flow rate (it was 70%, I set it to 85%), so I'll update again in a few minutes when that finishes!

Thanks for the information about calibrating e steps from everyone! It's getting late, so I don't want to mess around with that tonight, but I'll give it a shot tomorrow!

Update 2: welp.

!

That's possibly the worst one yet. I'm reprinting the bigger insert piece seen in the original post to check if my printer simply can't do that quality or if it's the e steps. If it's e steps, I'm going to bed...

Update 3:

Welp, seems like it's the e-step. However, it's too late for me to care about that right now, so I'm going to bed. Thanks for the help everyone! I'll work on fixing the issue tomorrow

I would really appreciate it if someone could help me with this. I'm having an issue with my Sovol SV06, which is that I get a lot of stringing. I'm still fairly new to 3D printing, so I have no idea what could cause this and how I could go about fixing this. I already searched for this issue online btw but didn't really find anything helpful.

The only change I made to this printer is that I hooked up a Raspberry Pi 4 to it and installed Klipper and Octoprint. I'm also using PrusaSlicer with the config from here.

Edit: Forgot to mention I was using PLA for this print

This was my very first 3D print on an Anycubic Photon D2. Turned out much better than I expected

We're happy to announce that BusKill is presenting at DEF CON 32.

What: Open Hardware Design for BusKill Cord When: 2024-08-10 12:00 - 13:45 Where: W303 – Third Floor – LVCC West Hall

| [!BusKill goes to DEF CON 32 (Engage)](https://www.buskill.in/defcon32/) | |:--:| | BusKill is presenting at DEF CON 32 |

via @[email protected]

What is BusKill?

BusKill is a laptop kill-cord. It's a USB cable with a magnetic breakaway that you attach to your body and connect to your computer.

| [!What is BusKill? (Explainer Video)](https://www.buskill.in/#demo) | |:--:| | Watch the BusKill Explainer Video for more info youtube.com/v/qPwyoD_cQR4 |

If the connection between you to your computer is severed, then your device will lock, shutdown, or shred its encryption keys -- thus keeping your encrypted data safe from thieves that steal your device.

What is DEF CON?

DEF CON is a yearly hacker conference in Las Vegas, USA.

| [!DEF CON Documentary](https://www.buskill.in/defcon32/) | |:--:| | Watch the DEF CON Documentary for more info youtube.com/watch?v=3ctQOmjQyYg |

What is BusKill presenting at DEF CON?

I (goldfishlaser) will be presenting Open Hardware Design for BusKill Cord in a Demo Lab at DEF CON 32.

What: Open Hardware Design for BusKill Cord When: Sat Aug 10 12PM – 1:45PM Where: W303 – Third Floor – LVCC West Hall

Who: Melanie Allen (goldfishlaser) More info

Talk Description

BusKill is a Dead Man Switch triggered when a magnetic breakaway is tripped, severing a USB connection. I’ve written OpenSCAD code that creates a 3D printable file for plastic parts needed to create the magnetic breakaway. Should anyone need to adjust this design for variations of components, the code is parameterized allowing for easy customization. To assemble a BusKill Dead Man Switch cord you will need:

1. a usb-a extension cord,
2. a usb hard drive capable of being attached to a carabiner,
3. a carabiner,
4. the plastic pieces in this file,
5. a usb female port,
6. a usb male,
7. 4 magnets,
8. 4 pogo pins,
9. 4 pogo receptors,
10. wire,
11. 8 screws,
12. and BusKill software.

| [!Image of the Golden BusKill decoupler with the case off](https://www.buskill.in/defcon32/) | |:--:| | Golden DIY BusKill Print |

Full BOM, glossary, and assembly instructions are included in the github repository. The room holds approx. 70 attendees seated. I’ll be delivering 3 x 30 min presentations – with some tailoring to what sort of audience I get each time.

Meet Me @ DEF CON

If you'd like to find me and chat, I'm also planning to attend:

• ATL Meetup (DCG Atlanta Friday: 16:00 – 19:00 \| 236),
• Hacker Kareoke (Friday and Sat 20:00-21:00 \| 222),
• Goth Night (Friday: 21:00 – 02:00 \| 322-324),
• QueerCon Mixer (Saturday: 16:00-18:00 \| Chillout 2),
• EFF Trivia (Saturday: 17:30-21:30 \| 307-308), and
• Jack Rysider’s Masquerade (Saturday: 21:00 – 01:00 \| 325-327)

I hope to print many fun trinkets for my new friends, including some BusKill keychains.

| [!Image shows a collection of 3D-printed bottle openers and whistles that say "BusKill"](https://www.buskill.in/defcon32/) | |:--:| | Come to my presentation @ DEF CON for some free BusKill swag |

By attending DEF CON, I hope to make connections and find collaborators. I hope during the demo labs to find people who will bring fresh ideas to the project to make it more effective.

I'm looking to buy ups as I have few power outage (last between 1 to 5 seconds max) where I live but I have never used one so don't know what specs should I check for

Ideally I will plug my 3d printer (about 100-160w when printing), a pi 4 with nvme drive (no idea of wattage) and a mini pc with n100 processor (around 10-20W)

Thanks for your advices

Screenshots of the UI changes on the Mac - in my opinion it is now just wasting a lot of screen estate for zero benefit.

On non-Macs they're adding an extra usability issue by hiding the top menu bar. I've gove back to 2.7.4 for now - fortunately I had my configuration in git.

Up to 2.7.4:

!

2.8.4:

!

Seems neat. If it wasn't so expensive, I'd try it.

Side note: I wanna know more about that inline filament dryer. I don't like the prep by using a box. I always forget.

I guess they're just going to end up being really good but heavily overpriced like the rest of the FormLabs products.

cross-posted from: https://lemmy.world/post/17328458

> Oh boy, here I go shillin' again. > > I just updated my 3D printable balisong utility knife so hard that it wound up with a new name. > > ! > > As usual, you get the brief version here. Massive amounts of details are located, as ever, in the original post and also at the Printables link. > > Want one? Of course you do. Get the files here.

The LinkedIn post OP was referencing in the video. https://www.linkedin.com/feed/update/urn:li:activity:7214228916142534656/

TCT article on the situation. https://www.tctmagazine.com/additive-manufacturing-3d-printing-news/latest-additive-manufacturing-3d-printing-news/shapeways-ceases-operations-and-files-for-bankruptcy/

3D Printing Industry article that goes more into the financial side of the issue. https://3dprintingindustry.com/news/shapeways-bankrupt-5m-rescue-bid-rejected-231387/

Hello!

So I decided, as a way to improve my cad skills, that I would take an old laptop of mine and design a case around the motherboard and use it as a micro PC in my work area. I have nearly all of it designed, just shy of the power button.

On account of not having a sautering iron, I would rather avoid sautering a button on and was trying to go a more analogue approach by printing a button into the case that could maybe use a compliant mechanism to press in and come back out, but I am very uncertain how to go about it.

Any help appreciated

Super simple prototype but if it works... Very cool idea!

Hey. A couple weeks ago I got my old ender 3 pro out of the basement and have been trying to get a decent print with it ever since. I managed to print out one benchy without issue, but ever since then every print I do would be plagued with awful underextrusion.

I've replaced a few parts, including the hot end and the nozzle, and even did this one hack someone suggested where you put a piece of PTFE tubing in the hotend, but no matter what the issue persists. My thought was it might be the creality filament I ordered, so I ordered a spool of hatchbox filament. But the problem ended up being worse on the hatchbox filament. I've put both in a filament dehydrator but it's made no difference. Both spools have tough sections along them that don't seem to melt as easily when I pull them out of the extruder, so I'm thinking that might have something to do with it.

Turning the print speed down and increasing the flow and temperature yielded better results, but it was still underextruding on every other layer.

I want to know if there's something I can or should do before I just give in and buy another roll of filament. I've probably spent enough at this point to buy a better printer, but I guess that's sunk cost for ya.

Edit: SOLVED! I just forgot to tighten the extruder tension arm, now it's working perfectly. Thanks to @[email protected]

I have to have that spider mech.

cross-posted from: https://lemmy.world/post/17097936

> As usual, since I already wrote a monumental piece on this in the other community, I'm just going to give you guys the short version. The long version is in the cross-post link above. > > What it is: A 3D printable Axis lock folding knife, mechanically complete fully functional, with Penguin beak wave opener, one each. The world's finest; the world's only. > > We're having great fun with this and other silly objects over on [email protected]. > > Jooooooin usssssss. You know you want to. > > ! > > Printables link: Here.

I am not a design draftsman, I'm not an engineer. My workflow is usually: I put something on the scanner, load the calibrated scan, trace the outline, throw a few sketches on various planes in there, round a few edges, print it and I'm done.

Fusion 360 scratches that itch very well but requires me to keep a Windows VM and also their free model felt more and more unusable. OnShape is a nice substitute that works fine for me, but I don't like the "free or 1500€/year" approach. Without a middle ground subscription for makers it feels that I could lose anything the second their energy prices for servers go up or something.

The list of CAD software is exhaustive, so I am looking for recommendations that fit my "eh, click, click, click, good enough" workflow. FreeCAD is way too unintiuitive for that. I have tried getting into it, but 3D printing is a tool for me and the learning curve quickly made using it another hobby.

So. Suggestions welcome. Scalding criticism about my lack of enthusiasm and consumer mentality not so much, but I guess that comes bundled with useful advice, so, eh, I'll take it.

I've been trying to troubleshoot a surface texturing issue for several weeks. I accidentally noticed the pulley had wobble, but thought it was the stepper motor at first. Nope. It's the pulley.

I'm interested in trying to build a Snappy v3

I started a print today as per usual and I randomly thought of something and am uncertain if it may already be a thing.

Independent perimeter layer height. Or basically, you take the set layer height, say 0.3, divide it by a user selected amount, in this case by two, and print some number of the outermost perimeters at that height until it reaches the set layer height. In this example it would print two outer perimeters at 0.15 layer height in two layers, and then proceed with the rest of the layer.

I thought this may be what variable layer height does, but it seems to vary the height of the whole layer in different regions. If there is anything like this that would be neat

I'm working on a gift for a coworker who is resigning, it's based on a joke about the breakfast discussions being an excellent podcast.

I have 3 test pieces that I want to experiment on I want to smooth the surface and add a anti-slip surface to both sides. Any suggestions? Ideas? Comments?

I've watched a lot of resources about toner transfer over the last few days, and while everything was quite experimental and empirical, the main gist was : heat + pressure = toner transfer. As I didn't want to, for obvious reasons, cook a dial full of unknown glues, paints and metals in the family's kitchen oven, I started experimenting with my printer's bed.

So I made a janky setup. I printed my design mirrored on a laser-compatible transparency sheet, cut it to size, secured it on a sterile dial with a bit of Kapton and cut a bit of rubber to try and spread pressure evenly. I then clamped the contraption to my printer's heated bed.

Advantages: It's basically free if you already have a laser printer, transparencies and a 3d printer laying around.

Inconvenients: It looks absolutely unprofessional up close. At regular wrist distance, it's fine.

My first attempt was 30 minutes at 100°C. Way too much heat and/or pressure, the printing was smooshed and uneven pressure meant that parts of the design didn't transfer properly. The sheet's cutout shape was clearly imprinted on the glossy dial.

My second attempt (pictured here) was 15 minutes at 95°C. Much crisper lines and if not for a tiny bit of the logo that didn't transfer (probably a speck of dust underneath), would have been perfect. The sheet's cutout shape was still slightly imprinted on the glossy dial, on matte dials it might not be visible.

This process deserves to be refined as it brings an easy way to customize dials if you're not aiming at super macro beauty shots, unfortunately I don't have any spare dials anymore to experiment. I think a lower temperature and/or a lower pressure might work even better.

Edit: Here are my two attempts at making this dial:

https://i.imgur.com/QWKhzYG.jpeg

Edit: Just copy the original filename, Chinese and all, to a custom RERF file. It tested fine with the factory tests and also custom test parts I made. I didn't test with only "R_E_R_F.px6s" as the filename as I proved the original filename works fine with custom models.

Edit2: I had the motivation to check the file today without that Chinese and it works fine as well.

Just got a new Anycubic Photon Mono X 6Ks and the RERF file on the included USB has Chinese characters in the name. ("R_E_R_Fchch.px6s" / ch being Chinese characters...) Does the printer require those characters for custom RERF test prints, or is it actually just "R_E_R_F.px6s"?

The documentation is unclear and online searching is jumbled with several issues regarding this filename across different printer models.

In my previous post titled Low End FDM for Miniatures, Hobby Parts, and Messing Around? I received a ton of fantastic recommendations, but ultimately went with the A1 mini due to its price at the time, ease of use, and several other factors. It came in today, and I've already made 10 different prints on it. The Benchy came out wonderfully, and so has everything else so far.

Thank all of you for your help, and I look forward to continuing to be a part of the community.

So, a few days ago I've written about a then work-in-progress configurable calendar model and now we're ready to roll!

Features

• The days are always correct - uses an algorithm to calculate the correct day for any date. So if you want to print a calendar for 2077, rest assured that the model will calculate the correct day for the 1st of January (it's Friday, btw).
• Generate only select months - the full model measures 240x240 mm, which might be quite large for some smaller printers. You can generate only months 1-6 and then separately months 7-12 and voilá, it fits.
• Choose how many months are on each row - what would it help cutting the calendar in half by only selecting half of the months if you couldn't fit 3 columns on your print bed? Well, just change the amount of columns, of course! Set it to 2 and the model fits again.
• Custom holidays - every country has different holidays and here you can put them all easily!
• No AMS or MMU? No problem! - supports printing both with AMS/MMU and without. With a simple toggle you can switch between multi material mode and a mode where each colored part has different height for manual color switching
• Are Saturdays worth celebrating? - you decide! A simple toggle to toggle whether Saturdays have that holiday/Sunday color or not
• Magnet or hook holes? - or both? You can configure the diameter, width, height and whatnot of either or both.
• What the f…ont! - choose your font, choose your font size.
• No hablo English? - just translate the calendar to your language! Title, month names and day names are all translatable.

I read through the Orca Slicer manual on github, but I don't understand how the retraction test works. I have no idea how I'm suppose to distinguish the results. Would anyone like to explain in layman's terms what it is I'm looking for?

> Abstract Sanitation effectiveness of 3D-printed parts for food and medical applications has been established in a 4-month lab study and controlled tests. The present study examined the continued use of sanitation techniques across 3 more months of testing and experimentation in household kitchens. Multiple specimens of the most common thermoplastics for Fused Filament Fabrication (FFF), were printed with a range of settings to test for pathogen contamination, biofilm production, bacteria, or other pathogens masking (hiding) in the layer lines, gaps, and other imperfections of said prints. This study investigates methods of sanitation and cleaning to reduce or eliminate pathogens along with its biofilms from the defects and interstitial spaces that naturally occur in FFF printing. Results from various testing methods used in hospitals and FDA approved microbial surface testing, indicate that 3D printed parts of PLA/PLA+ (Polylactic Acid), and PETG (Polyethylene terephthalate glycol) can be cleaned to safe levels using warm water (120 °F), and non-concentrated dish soap. Examination and verification of cleanliness were completed via Petri dish preparations, and protein residue testing. It was found that Colony Forming Units (CFU) and Plaque Forming Units (PFU) had been reduced by 90%. Experimental results indicate that using 2g of baking soda, when used with soapy water, eliminates biofilms by chemical and physical action, neutralizes acidic bacteria, and removes mucus. It is recommended and tested by surgical technicians, that a 2-minute room temperature bleach water soak (200ppm), after washing and rinsing should be done to ensure pathogens are at safe levels. Acetic acid from vinegar was tested as well via petri dish for CFU reduction and can effectively eradicate biofilms due to the ability to penetrate the biofilm matrix and the cell membrane. It is noted to the reader that sanitation in this context refers to the method of bringing a surface or object to safe levels of cleanliness for food or medical preparation and storage. Furthermore, mass spectrometry readings indicate that no contamination from heavy metals, or other toxins are present in PLA+, and PETG before and after printing. Lastly, filaments made from a pull-trusion method from recycled soda or water bottles has been tested as well. When using 3D-printed items for liquids, it is highly recommended to coat the 3D-printed parts in resin. This is a simple, fast, safe, and very effective way to smooth parts to ensure easy cleaning.

So, I'm making a fully customizable calendar in OpenSCAD with the following features:

• correct columns for every date - uses an algorithm to calculate the correct day of the week for any date, you just change the year and the calendar is correct
• fully translatable
• supports custom holidays
• supports both MMU/AMS and single extruder (with the help of M600 or similar)

Planned features:

• configurable holes for magnets or holes for hanging the calendar
• configurable first day of the week

I can share the SCAD file, though beware it's a work in progress and I haven't test printed it yet.

Some screenshots:

Click here to view the screenshots

UK calendar with holidays 2024:

!

UK calendar with holidays 2025:

!

Czech calendar with holidays 2024:

!

---

What do you think?

I have a huge bag of filament waste. Where should I send this? I know it is only commercially recyclable in like very specific cases so stuff like PLA will almost never be recycled. However, I do hear of companies accepting filament and they sell back the rolls and stuff. I'm not looking to make a profit or anything, just gotta get this off of me and I want the most sustainable way to do so.

So I wanted a small, and thin friction hing for another project, and I couldn't find the metal ones that they use for the iPad's Magic Keyboard case. So I design my own the parts I had on my desk.

The smallest nut that I had was 4mm wide which really limited how thick the design can be. The result is this

!

It folds flat at measure at a maximum thickness of about 10mm

!

It works a lot better than I thought it would, especially since this is my first prototype print. Need to figure out some things, like to stiffen the arms and to prevent/reduce twisting.

!

But as a basis to start from this works nicely. I think if I add a TPU washer on the back end, I might be able to get it stiffer and more consistent feeling. But I'll do that at another time.

The SV08 is marketed as a mass-produced Voron 2.4, with a much lower price and a very quick setup. They even say they donate a small amount to the Voron project for each sale.

Has anyone here bought/tested it? What are your thoughts about it?

Are there some limitations/downsides compared to a Voron?

Is it possible to upgrade it Voron-style (Stealthburner, enclosure etc)?

Currently, Prusa is doing a terrible job with the Printables competition, to the point where they could be in legal trouble if someone were to push for it.

A few examples to prove this statement (5th is in my opinion the worst):

1. insect hotel -> canceled due to security concerns. Great work, but why not look into it before you start and provide a design guideline? https://www.printables.com/contest/436-insect-hotels

2. Bathtub toys -> Mentioned explicitly: "Safety is our top priority, so make sure your creations are child-friendly, [...]". As these are bath toys, one might assume that they mean safety standards for young children. https://www.printables.com/contest/428-bathtub-toys

Great. Safety is a top priority. So let's see how they moderate it. They haven't... If you scroll through the valid submissions, there are dozens that aren't safe for children. Prusa is EU, so I would expect them to be familiar with the basic EU regulations for children's toys when they say we want safety first. There are very strict test requirements that a toy has to meet. The simplest one is a bin/cylinder that a part cannot fit into (choking hazard). Does every design meet this very basic design rule? No. Next comes impact resistance and the like. Does the design meet these requirements? no.

You could say that it's just not feasible to review every submission, so let's take a look at the winning entries that they definitely looked at: Rubber Band Submarine. I'm not a toy designer, but I'm pretty sure that an exposed rubber band is not safe for small children, who are the target audience for bath toys.

3. fish tank tweaks: Recommending PLA for prints that are permanently submerged ("It is usually recommended to use ABS or specific food-safe PLA..."). Seriously???? These days they are PLA under these conditions is rubbish within a year. Discoloration and expansion destroy some PLA blends/filaments.

4. soldering aid: Seeing this design as a winning soldering aid raises serious questions as to whether the person involved has any practical experience in assembling electronics. Placing a PCB 2cm in the air with sharp objects around the mounting holes is the opposite of ergonomic and comfortable SMD soldering: https://www.printables.com/model/740818-parametric-stackable-pcb-standoffs-m2-m14-holes

****5. This contest had questionable practices and here's where things get wild. Now we're not just talking about knowledge gaps, we're talking about breaking your own rules, which could be a legal problem. One of the contest rules states: "A valid entry may change its slope, altitude or distance." Simple. Right? Not for Prusa: https://www.printables.com/model/837104-the-rig-r11-diy-helper-stand-for-testing-electroni

This is a winning entry that can't do any of those things, and would probably qualify as a generic holder (also not a valid entry).

Another winning entry that wouldn't be a valid entry if Prusa followed the contest rules: "Skip the organisers: We love a tidy workplace, but today we're focusing on ergonomic improvements": https://www.printables.com/model/808502-heat-insert-press

Want a third from the same competition? Here it is: https://www.printables.com/model/808502-heat-insert-press "Specific adaptability: Designs must provide flexibility in the user's interaction with the tool or aid (height, tilt, distance or orientation adjustments). Simply accommodating different sizes of objects doesn't quite fit the bill".

To recapitulate, Prusa broke the rules not once, not twice, but three times within this competition (which, being EU, has some legal requirements on how you can and can't run competitions) by awarding prizes with monetary value and talking them away from other competitions that followed the rules.

There is more wrong with how this was organized/done, but I think this is damning enough. Never assume evil, so I would kindly call it Prusa being utterly incompetent.****

6. The current XPR challenge. Design a part for a robotics kit. Sounds exciting. First bummer, it's $115 + tax, but that wouldn't be noteworthy enough to write this:

6.1 To design for it a.) either buy it (providing a $35 discount if you do so) or b.) try to work with whatever this is: https://www.printables.com/model/576581-xrp-robot-part-of-the-experiential-consortia/files the picture shows a complete model with PCB and sensors (some connectors and wiring are missing) but would be workable. What do they actually deliver? The frame with no electronics or components. Good luck working with that.

6.2 While this may or may not go in the direction of predatory, there is more: "Photo quality - Well lit, in focus and clear photos will help showcase your work and help us choose the best designs." Quick questions: How do I take good and compelling photos without the $115 robot kit? | Prusa: "This also means that you don't need to own a 3D printer to enter". Question: "How do you make photos without a 3D print to show of? the wording is very clear that they mean photos and not computer 3d-Render. Just by looking at these two aspects, this thing has a $115 + tax ticket to improve the "chance" of winning.

6.3 Moral issues: This work is unpaid to begin with. Does Prusa really expect people to spend tens of manhours working on a good design, printing it, taking pictures, writing instructions and text, when they have absolutely no use for it themselves, since this kit has probably only been sold a handful of times to end users. There is only a small chance of wining something (remember exhibit 5 where they didn't even follow their own rules)?

Last but not least: "Popularity – Share your model to increase its popularity, and prove that users appreciate such a model." This is fairly common for some events and I always dislike it as this asking for free advertisement. Prusa at least limits it to the model itself while others use a broader approach where it is for the entire project/organization. Regardless such terms always have a negative impact. Just remember all the MakerWorld spam everywhere after they launched with high rewards.