Because of the abundance of cheap, high quality aftermarket short darts, nobody really makes their own anymore. But if you still worship the old gods, you'll want some foam backer rod for the bodies. Here's the guide:
http://nerfhaven.com/forums/topic/23034-how-to-make-homemade-nerf-darts/
Stryfe X Storage Charge?
Has anyone with a Stryfe X mentioned anything about storage charge for the battery? It seems like all it can do is plug in and charge to full from what I've seen.
In theory, could I use a USB-C to XT60 connector and charge that battery on my balance charger, or would the battery's internal board mess with that process somehow?
Good to see the Sportsman getting some recognition. I hadn't considered a sealed breech, but 140 fps on the stock spring is nothing to sneeze at. Are there any printed options for mag adapters or something similar?
Dart Zone Outlaw - Priming and Reload Technique
I managed to find a single Outlaw at a Target in Houston and decided to do a little video on how to easily prime and reload this thing. Both the hammer and cylinder are a bit stiff, but they're buttery smooth when you apply force the right way. Hopefully this helps some people who may not be familiar with a heavy hammer-action.
Universal Picatinny Mount?
In a quest for truly stupid levels of precision, I've purchased this fantastic little angle finder. I want to securely mount it to a picatinny rail without having to create a custom mount. Are there universal mounts that attach to picatinny and just clamp down on anything you put in them?
I mean, I'm sure there are, but for some reason I'm struggling to search for them. Here's a link to the tool for dimensions and whatnot:
Magnetic Digital Angle Finder - Compact LED Digital Angle Gauge & Level Tool - Measures 0-360 Degree Ranges - Essential Woodworking, Electrical, Plumbing & Carpenter Tools https://a.co/d/20KHzQo
What ranges are we talking about? Like, would 3x be considered long range? That's good for something like 300 yards, right?
I'm picking one out as we speak. I'm debating paying $8 extra for the fancy Victorian door handle.
The doorknob latch holds back the plunger in its firing position, and turning the knob acts as a trigger and releases the plunger.
Doorknob Catch?
I invoke the deep magicks of nerfhaven. Is there a reason we never used doorknob latches as catch mechanisms? They're already shaped perfectly for a plunger to slide over them, and they come with a built-in trigger mech. Did they just not have strong enough springs, or was there another reason I never saw these in the pre-3D printer days?
I love that it's been years and Amazon hasn't bothered to correct anything about this cursed image.
Modulus Longstrike on sale
For the first time in what feels like a long time, the Modulus Longstrike is on sale on Amazon for Prime Day. There are a lot of other blasters on sale as well, but I don't think I've ever seen the Longstrike this cheap.
https://a.co/d/0Y1kcII
Nice! I used to hit up multiple Goodwills on my way home every day for years. Nowadays I'm content with the size of my collection overall, but thrift stores and these kinds of apps are an absolute gold mine of rare stuff for those who are diligent.
It may be a hassle to source the hardware yourself, but it will still be significantly easier than trying to obtain discontinued blasters after enough time has passed. Plus, printed files can be modified to take new hardware.
Looks like I've got some work to do on my Rough Cut.
I've ordered these from Jayde and they do their job. The most I needed to do was a little sanding to get them to smoothly eject from certain blasters.
It'll be the more accessible option for now, but that changes very quickly. Not too long ago, the Farshot was the most amazing thing since sliced bread, and the Rainbow pistol was outdated. Fast forward a few years and I can still make a Rainbow pistol, whereas the Farshots, their ammo, and their upgrade springs are already forgotten.
Long-term, the community blasters (with the ability to modify files for variable hardware) are going to outlast any retail product.
Catch Push or Pull?
I'm designing a printed stringer that uses a sled rather than direct string contact, and I'm trying to decide on whether the trigger should pull or push on the catch mech to release. In a direct contact stringer, the catch mech just pushes the string directly upward, so this is all new to me.
The sled is already pushing forward against the catch, so a pulling trigger would press the catch harder into the sled and pull it back further before releasing. A pushing trigger would instead move in the same direction as the string tension, temporarily reducing the load on the catch before releasing.
Is there a significant difference between these two methods? Should I just use a pivoting catch instead? Bear in mind that stringer springloads can get a lot, lot heavier than springers if desired, so I'm thinking in terms of what will be best for these printed parts as they produce constant lateral friction against each other.
So far, very few DZ high performance blasters have launched without some issues. There will always be a place for community blasters once the retail blasters dry up, or if someone just wants to mod the platform.
They had a good run, contributed some great stuff to the hobby, and made sure their products were available through other distributors before they left. That's about as good as it gets and I wish them the best.
Is there a fundamental difference in the lens material that causes this? I know very little about scopes. And what magnification constitutes long range vs medium range?
I'm betting that bit of AR that gets pushed back is misaligned and ends up blocking the connector between the plunger and the barrel. Jolts have this little 'neck' of tubing between the two, and it's very small. You might want to get back in there with a pair of needlenose pliers or something.
For testing purposes, would a laser pointer + leveling tool achieve the same thing as a magnified scope? It seems like it would actually be a bit more accurate, but I don't see anyone doing that. Is there a reason not to?
Ideal Sights for Testing/Recording?
I really like Bradley Phillips' accuracy test videos, and I'd like a sight similar to his, that's both accurate enough to test precision/accuracy at 100ish feet and can either work well with a recording device or has recording capabilities built in. Any recommendations for something I can get in the States? Picatinny compatibility is a must, but something that could also be mounted to other types of rails would be nice.
Thank you! I was also really surprised that most retailers didn't list it, even the T238 site. Should've thought to check Monkee Mods.
T238 BCAR Angle?
Anyone know the angle of the T238 tracer bearing scar? Is it 15 degrees like the Worker and Jingjia BCARs?
This is what my nerf closet looked like until just recently. I finally managed to get everything into plastic totes and I feel so liberated.