3070ti, but im running ultra settings, minus ray tracing. I imagine it runs a lot better if you can stomach medium or high on lower spec cards.
Pretty decent. It still chugs a little in the hub area, but other than that its been bug free for me (minus one graphical glitch on a killing animation)
“If space is so big, why won’t it fight me?” - some internet man or summin i dunno.
How to turn every room into a panic room:
Step 1. Enter room Step 2. Panic
Repeat steps for all rooms.
I wouldn’t worry too much right now. Just replace the bulb and see if it dies quickly again. Can’t draw too many conclusions from a sample size of one!
It’s probably the amount of use those lights get. Theoretically it should last longer.
Things to check:
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Is your dimmer from a reputable brand, or unknown Chinese origin?
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Is your LED bulb compatible with dimmers?
If there is a problem with the dimmer it would be hard to diagnose without an oscilloscope.
Chances are its a dead capacitor on the LED’s driver board. LEDs last for ages, but manufacturers build in planned obsolescence through shitty support components. If you have a multimeter with a capacitor test function you could rip the driver circuit out and test them to confirm.
Other thing to check would be to make sure your lighting circuit has all the lights connected in parallel. Assuming you have more than one bulb on that dimmer, if they are wired in series then the first bulb would be having to handle the current draw for all subsequent bulbs. I imagine if this was the case it would be burning out pretty quick tho. You would know if they were in series though because all your other bulbs would stop working at the same time, and (im not an electrician) i dont think that this would be up to code anyway, so pretty unlikely.
I didn’t mean to give a false impression, i’m by no means an expert, or a rotary guy. I like cars and i’ve absorbed some stuff hearing people talk about rotaries over the years, but I gave you my perspective as to what was going through my head when I read your post.
I like my cars relatively risk averse. For context I don’t think i’ve ever owned a car with more than 80K miles (currently have a manual 2011 BMW E89 Z4 30i with ~50k miles).
The numbers i picked were from a crude google search over a coffee, but I think they served more to illustrate why I would be cautious rather than a bullet proof breakdown of costs.
I stand by my point that a seller dropping a 30% discount on ya is not confidence inspiring. However… have you thought about giving him a stupid lowball, like $50 more than scrap value? That way if you get to work and you start sliding in past your proverbial elbow, you can cut your losses at least knowing it was dirt cheap.
Having said all that, it sounds like you’re kinda down for a bit of a project, in which case my perspective is totally misaligned to yours so please take anything I say with a heap of salt.
I picked the two of these up together on CDkeys for £60 (about 50% off). Thoroughly enjoying them.
Considering the loss of compression, milage, and the substantial discount given unprompted, i’d be concerned that the apex seals are toast. Cursory google search says a rebuild costs anywhere from $4-6K
Car - $900 Engine rebuild - $4000 to $6000 Respray - $1000 Interior trim - $200 Wheels - $750 Slush fund for other stuff you dont know is a problem yet - $1000
So, in my head its not a $900 car, it’s (worst case) potentially like a ~ $9000 car with 90K miles + the effort to fix it up.
I’m not an expert and i’m sure that i’m over estimating, but personally I wouldn’t touch this. Not worth the headache in my book.
Just the owner being so desperate to get rid of it is enough to put me off.
Not sure how to send links to different communities, but you’d probably enjoy [email protected] (if you’re on Memmy or other app just search for Risa)
I hear you like screenshots and beans.
We’ve got beans, beans and screenshots! Screenshots, screenshots and beans! Beans screenshots and beans… etc.